Innovation Amidst Crisis: Textile Recycling's Call to Action
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- Published: Sunday, 14 April 2024 15:53
The recent pronouncement by the UK's Textile Recycling Association (TRA) has sent shockwaves through the industry, revealing that the country's textile recycling sector is teetering on the edge of collapse in the face of global market challenges. Against a backdrop of contrasting fortunes, exemplified by the struggles of Renewcell juxtaposed with the substantial investment in Syre, the textile recycling landscape appears both challenging and perplexing. Even those who have managed to navigate the treacherous waters find themselves grappling with the conundrum, while fresh capital continues to pour into new ventures.
Sourcing Journal delved into the unfolding situation by consulting with global leaders to gain insights. Sam Scoten, CEO of CheckSammy, highlighted the severity of the issue, attributing it to fast fashion's rampant consumption and the lack of integration in the textile recycling supply chain. He emphasized the importance of point-of-source diversion, capturing materials before they are discarded, as a pivotal strategy in waste reduction.
Scoten noted the convergence of wasteful industries with the pressing global environmental crisis, creating a sense of urgency for immediate action and attention. He echoed the TRA's alarm, underscoring the need for swift measures to avert far-reaching consequences.
Karla Magruder, president and founder of Accelerating Circularity, emphasized that while the industry is undergoing significant changes, it will not disappear entirely. She emphasized the importance of developing waste-to-product solutions to capitalize on opportunities and reduce costs.
Martin Stenfors, former head of strategy and sustainability at Renewcell, acknowledged the multifaceted challenges plaguing the market, including transportation costs and the declining value of resale items. He advocated for an extended producer responsibility (EPR) scheme to foster sustainable textile production and recycling.
Stenfors suggested that separating collection for recycling from collection for reuse could help increase the percentage of higher valued items in the recycling stream. He stressed the need for EPR funding to support collection and sorting activities for reuse and resale, ultimately benefiting recyclers through lower feedstock costs.
Constanza Gomez, co-founder and CEO of Sortile, highlighted the impact of rising secondhand platforms on resale margins, further complicating the landscape for textile recyclers. She emphasized the importance of landfill bans for textiles and the need for policies to support responsible textile waste management.
In response to the crisis, the UK's Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (DEFRA) has laid out a roadmap to minimize textile waste, which includes consultations on various policy proposals. DEFRA remains open to industry feedback, including the suggestion of an EPR scheme for textiles.
Looking ahead, Stenfors emphasized the importance of finding a balance across the entire textile recycling system, funded in part by EPR schemes. He stressed the need for profitability across all sectors to create a robust system for managing end-of-life textiles.
Gomez highlighted the opportunity for innovation and change in the textile recycling space, emphasizing the need to incentivize collection, improve sortation efficiency, and develop recycling infrastructure.
While the challenges facing the textile recycling sector are daunting, they also present an opportunity for transformation and advancement. With concerted efforts and innovative solutions, the industry can navigate the current crisis and emerge stronger, laying the foundation for a more sustainable future.